Universal Genève, founded in 1894 as ‘Uhrenfabrik Union’ before adopting its final name in 1919, established itself as a leader in Swiss horology through both technical innovation and refined design. In the 1930s and 1940s, it gained international acclaim with its Compur and Compax chronographs, among the first wristwatches to feature two- and three-register chronograph layouts, powered by in-house calibers. Later, the brand introduced the Polerouter in 1954, equipped with a pioneering micro-rotor movement, and designed by a young Gerald Genta. Universal Genève was also an early adopter of waterproof cases, anti-magnetic protection, and stylish integrated designs, often anticipating broader industry trends.

After changing hands to Bulova and several unsuccessful attempts to capture the East Asian market during the Quartz Crisis of the 1970’s and 1980’s, the company went through financial turmoil and a massive loss of capital. In 1989, the brand was purchased by Stelux Holdings International, Ltd., a Hong-Kong-based investment firm, also owners of Cyma. In 2023, Stelux sold Universal’s intellectual property to Partners Group, majority shareholder of Breitling, and since then, the watch world eagerly awaits the rebirth of one of its greatest brands.

In the first half of the 1990’s, Universal Geneve, now under Stelux, decided to issue a line of neo-retro ‘Compax’ watches powered by the hand-wound Lemania 1873 chronograph movement. Some were closer to the ‘Nina Rindt’ with their iconic twisted-lug design, while others resembled the Space Compax, or earlier, dressier chronographs.

This particular watch came to us from Japan, and it is finished in an unusual shade of burgundy. It is fully functional and keeps good time, yet it shows the bezel delamination typical of this model. Accompanied by box, papers, and original buckle, this 37mm ‘Baby Nina’ 884.485 is a great alternative to the Omega Speedmaster, and one that holds as much significance in racing history, effectively paying tribute to the 885103/02 ‘Nina Rindt’ at a fraction of the cost.